Thanksgiving’s tomorrow, and I’ve moved into holiday panic mode. Suddenly, my house looks shabby, the yard’s a mess, and I feel a temptation to run out and buy new plates and glassware for my guests (who don’t give a damn what their food is served on, or in). But instead I will roll dough and poach quinces, because pastry-making always calms my nerves. I’ll pre-bake my pie shells and make up a batch of custard for my tarts, and will feel grateful that my husband is dealing with the turkey and stuffing (and appetizers and table-setting). Here’s hoping you all have a warm and lovely (and stress free) Thanksgiving Day.