On His Way Out the Door, NYT Critic Answers Questions


The New York Times’ exiting restaurant critic, Frank Bruni, has an interesting piece in today’s paper in which he answers readers’ frequently asked questions. In response to a question about how to order, Bruni advises steering clear of dishes that show up on every restaurant’s menu. “The chef’s heart isn’t in them,” he writes. (To follow that advice here in Sacramento, I’d say skip the crème brûlée.)

He also warns readers away from anything with truffle oil, as well as dishes that are “aggressively fanciful.” Funnily enough, he goes on to recommend the fusilli with tomato, octopus and bone marrow at a New York restaurant called Marea, saying it has a “druggy” taste and effect. Hmmm. And that’s not aggressively fanciful?

Here’s a link to the story: