Local Restaurants Have Got Your Goat

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Pork’s known as the other white meat. But goat may soon be touted as the other red meat. Here’s proof: It’s increasingly showing up on local menus, at places like Mulvaney’s Building & Loan, Grange, Supper Club, Tuli Bistro, Centro Cocina Mexicana and Tapa the World. “Goat has a mild flavor, like rich American lamb,” says Patrick Mulvaney, owner of Mulvaney’s B&L. For last month’s Fourth Monday Family Night, held at the annex next door to the restaurant, Mulvaney roasted three whole goats from local farmer John Bledsoe. The dinner sold out. At the B&L, he sometimes serves a dish called “goat three ways”: braised leg, grilled chop and goat “bacon,” made from the belly. He also likes to pair housemade pappardelle with a braised-goat sauce. Mulvaney admits goat can be a tough sell, but notes that “once people taste it, they really like it.” According to John Paul Khoury, corporate chef at Preferred Meats (a Bay Area meat distributor), people who have a bad association with goat have simply never tasted the good stuff. His company sources young Spanish goats and South African Boer goats from small producers like Bill Niman’s BN Ranch and Circle O Ranch in Oregon. (Tough old dairy goats are a culinary no-no.) We Americans had better get used to eating goat, Khoury says: “It’s probably the most eaten meat on the planet.”