First Bite: One Speed

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One Speed is finally open, and East Sacramento foodies (including moi) couldn’t be happier. Owned and operated by Rick Mahan, owner/chef of midtown’s beloved The Waterboy restaurant, One Speed is a marvelous new addition to the neighborhood. I had an opportunity to visit last night and was blown away by the transformation of the space, once occupied by Café Milazzo. The restaurant is open and airy, with Dijon mustard-colored walls, a speckly, forest green wrap-around bar, and low, sturdy wood tables. The most arresting feature of the restaurant is the stunning, multi-colored tile pizza oven at the back of the space, which looks like a quirky (and enormous) piece of art. I was told the temperature inside the oven is approximately 650 degrees – hot enough to crank out some of most chewy, flavorful, terrific pizzas I have tried in the Sacramento region. I loved the “Rick’s” pizza, smothered with teeny yellow potato slices, caramelized onions, bits of salty pancetta and creamy goat cheese, with a satisfyingly bitter pop from arugula leaves. But One Speed offers more than just pizza- the frito misto (battered and deep-fried shrimp, peppers, fennel and anchovy-stuffed olives) being noisily consumed next to me at the bar filled me with longing; and the menu offers an intriguing, compact list of small and large plates and salads. Next on my list of must-tries? The tuna, chickpea and fregola salad with beets. I’ll be back – soon.

4818 Folsom Boulevard, Sacramento, (916) 706-1748, www.onespeedpizza.com