Review: The Rind


When it comes to food, midtown just keeps getting more exciting. Witness The Rind, a recently opened “cheese-centric bar” on L Street where you can savor cheese in a number of delectable ways. The menu includes interesting variations on macaroni and cheese, pretty cheese boards and creative grilled cheese sandwiches (many using ingredients—such as pureéd fava beans and sweet pepper jelly—that you’ve probably never thought of adding to this iconic American snack).

I ordered a cheese board on a recent visit. It included Marcona almonds, a scrumptious cherry jam and three cheeses, including two from Sonoma County’s Bellwether Farms: creamy, buttery Carmody and Pepato, a semisoft sheep’s milk cheese made with feisty whole peppercorns. The third was Cowgirl Creamery’s Red Hawk, a bold triple-cream cheese with a beautiful red-orange rind. Other outstanding dishes included a salad of locally grown greens and beets and a crusty grilled cheese sandwich showcasing Fiscalini clothbound cheddar cheese, served with a vivacious roasted tomato soup that tasted deeply and satisfyingly of Sacramento summer.

The Rind has an enticing selection of beers and wines, a knowledgeable staff and a large number of cheeses for retail purchase. The cozy space offers limited bar seating and several small tables; arrive early if you want to sit down.

1801 L St.; (916) 441-7463;