Small Bite: Fins

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Fins market & grill&emdash;

Bloated and bored by an excess of hollandaise sauce and overwrought sushi rolls? It may be time to seek simpler fare and give your palate (and stomach) a rest. Head to the newest Fins Market & Grill, at the corner of 19th and S streets in midtown. Fresh, unadorned seafood is the specialty of this friendly establishment, which also offers a pretty display case brimming with raw fish to take home and cook yourself.

I adore Fins’ sandwiches, slathered with a subtly sweet tartar sauce and filled with beautifully grilled fish fillets. The selection is impressive, from halibut and snapper to escolar and catfish. The deliciously spicy buffalo prawn sandwich will leave a pleasant tingle on your tongue. Fish entres come with your choice of Maddie’s Patties (a rich, twice-baked potato), rice pilaf or vegetables and a crunchy, refreshing purple-green coleslaw. The fish is as plain as you can get: no coatings, garnishes, crusts or crumbles to detract from its sweet, flaky freshness.

Other don’t-miss dishes include compact, flavorful crab cakes and fragrant steamed clams. I was less impressed with the salads, which were uninspired and over-lettucey. Fins also offers meaty chicken strips that were so yummy, I may order them the next time I visit.     

1901 S St., Sacramento; (916) 442-9300; finsmarket.com