Faria Bakery

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Squash beignets, pickled mulberries, puffed einkorn and romesco from Faria Bakery
Squash beignets, pickled mulberries, puffed einkorn and romesco from Faria Bakery. Photo by Christopher Beattie.

Since its doors first opened in Oak Park in 2019 (a second spot has since debuted in Folsom), Faria Bakery has been feeding the city’s food cognoscenti inventive pastries (matcha strawberry rye shortcake cream puffs, anyone?) and binge-worthy breads that have destroyed many a keto diet. But lately it’s Faria’s Wednesday night suppers that have diners buzzing.

Once a week, head chef Taylor Jung and crew turn Faria’s compact Sacramento location into a dinner destination with a concise menu of hyperlocal, produce-forward dishes that are as unconventional as their baked goods. Pizza is a mainstay, owing to the period early in the pandemic when Faria would sell pillowy rounds of dough to home cooks. The toppings change with the season: One month it might be sweet corn and cherry tomatoes; another it’s sunchokes and broccolini. Jung fills out the menu with a medley of thoughtfully composed salads and small plates. Past offerings include squash beignets with pickled mulberries; blanched asparagus with saffron yogurt, radish and mint; and Chioggia beets and purple daikon with burrata and pistachio gremolata.

“It’s very much a team effort,” says Jung of conceptualizing the menu, which can be eaten on-site or as takeout. “I’ll sit down with our pastry chef, Natalie Quach, and we’ll talk about what we’re interested in making, what looks good at the farmers market, how to source it all.”

For Jung, a fourth-generation Chinese-American who was raised in San Francisco and, at age 17, cut his teeth helping his uncle run a school lunch program in the mornings while attending the California Culinary Academy in the afternoons, the dishes are always laced with a bit of nostalgia: for his early food memories, for a particular ingredient, for a family member. “The starting point for coming up with a dish is often, think of something your grandmother fed you, think of something you ate as a kid. How do you capture how you felt about that experience, then translate it for the person you’re cooking for?” he explains. In spite of diners’ enthusiasm for Faria’s “supper club,” as they call it, there’s no plan to expand it beyond a weekly event. “It’s fun to play restaurant for a night,” says Jung, “but it takes a tremendous toll to flip the bakery to serve these dinners and then flip it back.”

Faria Bakery

3417 Broadway;
(916) 204-8726;
fariabakery.com