Meatloaf portions in restaurants tend to be generous – perhaps chefs know instinctively that they’re plating up a slab of comfort for a needy, hungry patron, and they want to make sure there’s plenty of it. But I was astounded by the sheer magnitude of Chops’ dense, fragrant, rosemary-flecked meatloaf – the size of a small novel, the meatloaf was heavy enough to serve as a (very tasty) doorstop. I tackled it with pleasure, and was rewarded by its big, satisfying, er – meaty – flavors. The accompanying lumpy mashed potatoes provided another form of comfort, and the dish’s delicious, just-soft-enough carrots added a welcome touch of sweetness to the meal.
Chops Steaks Seafood and Bar: 1117 11th Street, Sacramento, (916) 447.8900; http://chopssacramento.com