I was dazzled recently by a fabulous brunch at Magpie Café, a restaurant I more frequently visit for lunch and dinner. The place was packed at 10 a.m. on a Saturday morning, and I soon understood why—the menu had so many enticing dishes listed that I had a tough time choosing just one (I didn’t—I chose two. Don’t judge me). My huge Dragon mushroom omelet, generously dotted with tender chunks of locally cultivated fungi, chewy bits of salty lardons and roasted onions, was hearty and delicious, flanked by crusty purple potatoes. My companion’s Magpie Breakfast Plate was gorgeous, heaped with roasted seasonal vegetables, two eggs, scrumptious house-made sausage patties and baguette toast. But the pièce de résistance of this beautiful meal was the kitchen’s quince, persimmon and kumquat French toast, which arrived looking like it belonged on the cover of a swanky food magazine. Enlivened with Thai basil and a touch of black cardamom, Magpie’s unique version of this iconic brunch item was a sweet, exciting celebration of winter fruit.