First Bite: bacon and butter


I recently made my first visit to bacon & butter, a new midtown restaurant opened by chef Billy Zoellin. The former chef of The Golden Bear, Zoellin was in charge of the Golden Bear’s kitchen when it was featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Dives and Drive Ins in January 2011. Zoellin is now utilizing a space on 21st Street that’s shared with Club 21, so he’s offering his customers breakfast, brunch and lunch (Club 21 takes over the space in the evenings).

The casual interior features blue and earthy-brown tones, a well-worn wood floor, and lots of funky artwork adorning the walls. There’s a large communal table in the center of the space, and patrons can choose between booth seating or regular tables. There’s also a long bar at the back of the restaurant that offers additional seating.

The limited breakfast menu includes the thigh-thickening and delectable “b&b potatoes”: crusty potato cubes covered with melted cheddar cheese, sprinkled with salty chunks of lardon and sweet fried onions, and topped with two eggs and a feisty tabasco crème. Zoellin’s buttermilk flapjacks come with diced fruit; and there’s a nurturing bowl of vanilla bean oatmeal for diners seeking a more wholesome breakfast. Lunch dishes range from a Petrale sole picatta (with fried capers and oyster mushrooms) to a “blue” corn dog (dipped in a blue corn batter).

1119 21st Street, Sacramento, (916) 443-1537