By G.M. “Pooch" Pucilowski

It's July in Sacramento . That can mean only one thing: It's hot outside. So what do you drink while you're waiting for the Weber to heat up? Wine may not be the first thing you think of this time of year. And if you do pop a cork, you might choose a light, fruity varietal. Is that a euphemism for “no taste”? It doesn't have to be. Here, local wine merchants offer a slew of summer wine recommendations—tantalizing reds, refreshing whites and flavorful rosés that will whet your appetite while you sit on the deck waiting for the coals to turn white.

Steve Graham, the wine steward at Nugget Market on Florin Road, likes Scott Harvey 2002 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). Citing its “great strawberry-cranberry nose, slight earthiness and surprisingly dry finish,” he says this $8.99 wine would be fabulous with grilled salmon. He also touts Fire Station Red 2001 Shiraz ($12.99). This medium-bodied wine has rich, juicy fruit with raspberry, spice and blackberry flavors and a long finish. “Dry-rub ribs would be the perfect marriage,” he says.

Rod Farley, owner of Beyond Napa Wine Market in Sacramento, doesn't hesitate to call Cline Cellars' Red Truck 2002 (California) the best deal going at $8.99. It's a blend—80 percent Mourvedre, 20 percent Syrah. “It has a nice, soft, round feeling,” he says, “and is more interesting than each of its varieties by themselves. I can't think of anything better [to serve it with] than a gourmet grilled hamburger with Swiss cheese on an onion roll (slightly toasted), hot sweet mustard and—right from my garden—green heirloom tomatoes. I can taste it now.”

Carrie Boyle, owner of The Wine Merchant in Roseville and Folsom, suggests a delightful white wine from Down Under: Annie's Lane 2003 Riesling (Clare Valley, Australia), which is $9.99. “This versatile dry Riesling makes the perfect aperitif because of its lively citrus, melon, apple and flinty notes,” she says. “Crisp and bright, this wine offers medium acidity, which makes it an ideal accompaniment to a fruit and cheese platter, or with grilled halibut with a pineapple-onion-cilantro salsa. Delicious and refreshing!”

Luigi Velo, owner of Italian Importing Mercato in Sacramento, knows what kind of wine he likes to drink in the summer. “Italian!” he exclaims. “What else?” He recommends Vestini 2002 Sangiovese ($8.99). “It has light, fruity, berry flavors with a dry finish,” says Velo, suggesting you serve it with grilled sausages—either mild Italian or chicken.

Kay De Lange, owner of The Wine Smith in Placerville, prefers to stick to local wineries, such as Lavender Ridge, which makes a lovely 2002 Viognier ($22). “They use natural, native yeast, which gives the wine a complex, rich buttery flavor with lots of flowers in the nose,” she says. “It would be great with grilled oysters, mussels or shrimp shish kebab.” She also recommends Holly's Hill 2002 Grenache ($18), made with 20 percent Syrah. “It has lots of substance but is not heavy-handed. It has fresh hints of strawberry, spice and pepper.” Serve it, she says, with parchment-wrapped salmon with capers, dill, lemon and lots of butter.

Gary Moffat, owner of Carpe Vino in Old Town Auburn, suggests a rosé for summer drinking. “One of our recent finds is a light, refreshing Sangiovese Rosé from Paoletti Estates Winery on the Silverado Trail near Calistoga. Newly ripened strawberries on the nose with berries and spice on the palate make the 2003 Rosa D'Amore (Napa Valley) a perfect summertime patio pleasure. A hint of acid helps this wine stand up to grilled seafood, especially teriyaki-marinated shrimp.” It retails for $18.

Not to be left out: a 2002 Vouvray (made from Chenin Blanc grapes) from France by Barton & Guestier ($8.99). Light and fruity with a dry finish that is very refreshing, it would go well with a nice fruit salad.

And what would be better to barbecue than my favorite summertime treat: baby back ribs? Two varietals are always pleasing accompaniments to ribs: Valdiguié (which used to be called Gamay Beaujolais), a light, fruity red; and Zinfandel, a spicy, medium-bodied red with lots of raspberry-blackberry fruit. Ah, the coals are just about perfect. . . .

This article appears in the July 2004 issue of Sacramento Magazine.