I had a knockout dinner last night at Heat restaurant, which specializes in Japanese fondue (shabu shabu). It's only been open for 10 days, but service was impeccable and the food was spot-on. I devoured the kitchen's "BBQ albacore," big, warm, soft chunks of seared-on-the-outside tuna slathered with a fabulous, thick sauce; and delighted in the flavorful gyoza, with its super-thin, very crispy exterior. But the real reason to visit Heat is for the restaurant's shabu shabu—diners choose a broth (I was happy to discover that the restaurant provides a broth pot with two chambers, so couples can each enjoy their own selection—I recommend the miso and the tonkatsu, a delicious pork-based broth); they then add their favorite meat (or tofu), and a big pile of vegetables, including Napa cabbage, enoki mushrooms, spinach and corn into the bubbling broth. The food is scooped out with cute little basket ladles when it's cooked to the diner's satisfaction (it only takes moments). Condiments to accompany the meal include sesame paste, minced garlic and ginger, and chopped green onions; and each shabu shabu diner gets a bowl of green tea ice cream (speckled with bits of mango mochi) at the end of the meal.

Located in the space last occupied by Bali Wine Bar & Grill, Heat's small, square dining space is spare and contemporary, with clean lines and a striking crimson and gray color scheme. Attractive and entertaining, this would be a great first-date venue.

2416 18th Street, Sacramento, (916) 930-9888; www.heatshabu.com