By G.M. “Pooch” Pucilowski

As I write this column, gasoline prices are rising as rapidly as the outside temperatures. But you can take solace in the knowledge that wine prices are holding steady. There are lots of good wines on the market that are excellent values. Here are a few recommendations for your summer enjoyment:

Trimbach 2001 Pinot Blanc (Alsace, France). This $15 Pinot Blanc is a lovely white wine from one of the best-known wineries in France. It’s dry, with a crisp finish that is surprisingly soft. The nose has a remarkable citrus aroma that fits nicely with the taste. (707-255-7667)

Bogle Vineyards 2003 Sauvignon Blanc (California). This is an enjoyable, light summertime wine. Moderately dry, fresh and lively, it has nice floral characters of grapefruit, lemon grass and hints of citrus. And you can’t beat the price: $8. (916-744-1139; boglewinery.com)

It’s not often I get the opportunity to taste two Chardonnays from the same winery. Recently, I tasted Hogue Cellars’ reserve and regular wines. The reserve was made from grapes picked from specific blocks from a specific vineyard, and the wine was aged for 14 months in new French oak barrels. The regular wine is a blend of grapes from at least five vineyards, and much of it was fermented in stainless steel. All of the reserve underwent malolactic fermentation (in which the harsh malic acid is converted to the softer lactic acid), while only 40 percent of the regular wine did. Almost all reds undergo malolactic fermentation, but it is usually most noticeable in Chardonnays.

Hogue 2003 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley, Wash.). This wine surprised me. It has a beautiful balance of apples/pears and creamy vanilla. It is a very soft wine with nice crispness that begs a second glass be poured. At $10, it’s an extremely good buy. (509-786-4557; hoguecellars.com)

Hogue 2003 Chardonnay Reserve (Columbia Valley, Wash.). This $22 wine has definite overtones of oak with a hint of butteriness. It’s big and complex but elegant. For a wine that has undergone malolactic fermentation, it still has enough acidity to marry well with a good fish entrée. (509-786-4557; hoguecellars.com)

Summer isn’t just about white wines: I don’t know about you, but I still drink reds this time of year. I ran into a lovely red when I was in Reno. Sierra Foothills 2002 Barbera Grand Reserve, from French Hill Winery in Mokelumne Hill, Calaveras County, is big and full but has an elegance that is just delightful. Black-fruit aromas and hints of vanilla oak are balanced with a good amount of acidity. Medium-soft tannins round outthis $40 wine. (209-286-1800; frenchhill.com)

This article appears in the August 2004 issue of Sacramento Magazine.