Greenhouse Restaurant & Brewery
1595 Eureka Road
Sacramento, CA
(916) 789-1900
greenhouserestaurant.com
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editorial profile:
The Greenhouse, a “certified green restaurant,” has planted an ambitious stake in the ground. Owner Cory Holbrook’s goal is to offer patrons an all-organic menu, and he’s almost there—according to the kitchen staff, aside from a few small items, the menu’s ingredients are 90 to 95 percent organic. Ingredients are also sustainably-raised and locally sourced. All the meat used by the kitchen is antibiotic and hormone free, poultry is free range and even the packaging is 100 percent biodegradable. How could any health-conscious or green-conscious consumer resist? The compact lunch menu focuses on sandwiches and a bounty of salads, always a wonderful palette for seasonal vegetables and fruit. On one visit, late summer stone fruit was showcased in a spinach and feta chicken salad, tossed with marinated slices of nectarine and cucumber; and a radiantly refreshing Fuji apple salad featured full-flavored blue cheese crumbles and crunchy, spicy pecans. Carnivores shouldn’t miss the rich and satisfying beef French dip panini, draped with melted Camembert cheese and sweetened with softly caramelized onions. Greenhouse dinner items get fancier, more complex (and pricier) with dishes like the coriander-crusted Ahi tuna, served with a pristine arrangement of earthily pleasing Forbidden Black rice and topped with a tangy flourish of sautéed Napa cabbage; and the enormous seared beef ribeye steak, laid atop a rustic potato, leek and mushroom hash and bathed in an intensely meaty, lick-it-all-up beef demi glace. Vegetarians will be thrilled with the kitchen’s five-bean cassoulet, composed of white, garbanzo, black, fava and green beans, baked with eggplant, sundried tomatoes and roasted garlic. The grilled naan is another toothsome, non-meat choice—the cushy, smoky rounds of bread arrive with a pleasingly textured pistachio-olive tapenade and a subtly flavored white bean hummus. Thirsty? Try a mug of the house-brewed organic beer, and if you’re hankering for something sweet, the restaurant makes its own delicious gelatos and sorbets. Do take time to admire the restaurant’s stunning domed skylight and attractive, rounded brick and moss green walls. A cozy bar is snugged a level above the circular dining area (which is dominated by an enormous potted tree) and a quieter, more private dining area with several booths lies to the left. There’s also a pretty outdoor patio, bedecked with hanging flowers and flanked by a well-manicured grassy area. — Kira O'Donnell
Insider tip: Bring the kids—little ones have their own organic menu, including a three-cheese pizzetta and a “small hands” burger and fries, with housemade pickles.
Reservations: Recommended
Payment methods: AmEx, MasterCard, Visa
Alcohol: Full bar
Corkage fee: $15
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