Centro Cocina Mexicana
2730 J St.
Sacramento, CA
(916) 442-2552
paragarys.com/go/prg/locations/centro
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editorial profile:
It’s easy enough to grab a burrito or a plate of chile verde at your local taqueria. But if you’re searching for something significantly more interesting than your standby Mexican belly-filling fare, check out hip Centro Cocina Mexicana on J Street. A midtown foodie favorite for many years, Centro is also a vibrant singles’ hangout, with a very busy bar area. The menu, highlighting traditional dishes from all over Mexico, is fascinating—allow some time to read through it thoroughly before you order. Appetizers include the delectable chalupas—masa cups filled with shredded pork, onions, radish, cotija cheese and served with three salsas; and the lively, brightly flavored ceviche—chunks of fresh fish marinated in lime juice, cilantro, Serrano chiles and housemade hot sauce. Intriguing entrées abound. For a thrilling taste of the Yucatán, try the kitchen’s cochinita pibil, an achiote and citrus-marinated pork, slow roasted in banana leaves; or the Oaxacan pollo asado, a grilled, boneless half chicken marinated with chipotle chilies, garlic and lime juice and served with crispy plantains and papaya salsa. Other knockout dishes include the sopa seca de fideo con camarones, a delectable mélange of toasted pasta, shrimp, queso fresco and cilantro with a roasted tomato-chipotle sauce; and the complex, fragrant mole de Xico, a Veracruz specialty whose sauce is made from dried chiles and fruit, nuts, plantains and Mexican chocolate. The cheese-sprinkled guacamole is terrific, and the many salsas offered on the menu are, without exception, robustly flavored and memorable. The space is striking, with ornate black crosses, grimacing wooden masks of animals and skeletons adoring the walls; and dangling, lit stars hanging from the ceiling. The bar is almost guaranteed to be crowded (over 150 different types of tequila are available at Centro, and the cocktails are great. Don’t miss the “sangria rojo,” prepared with mango rum, red wine, fresh orange juice and pineapple juice) and it’s always a good idea to make reservations if you can—this is one popular midtown spot. — Kira O'Donnell
Insider tip:
Centro offers an exciting selection of tequila “infusions” created by the restaurant’s bartender-mixologist. Flavors change constantly, and range from coconut-passionfruit-banana and pineapple-red Fresno chili to cucumber-mint. Customers can either enjoy them “straight,” as a shot, or blended into a custom margarita.
Reservations: Accepted for any sized party at lunch; Reservations only accepted at dinner for parties of six or more
Payment methods: AmEx, Discover Card, MasterCard, Visa
Alcohol: Full bar
Corkage fee: $15
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