This plain, friendly, family-owned restaurant envelops you in a cocoon of exotic fragrances. Order the lal maas (a complex lamb curry made with red chili sauce) or prawn saagwala (fried prawns with spinach, garlic and roasted cumin seeds). The vegetarian selections include vegetable momo (steamed dumplings). There’s also a menu just for kids. For dessert, get the kulfi, a rich ice cream made from pistachio nuts and saffron.