By G.M. "Pooch" Pucilowski

The Chardonnay grape is the most widely planted white varietal in California, and Chardonnay is the most requested wine in restaurants. I recently tasted three to fit most budgets:

Clos du Val 2003 Chardonnay, Carneros, Napa Valley ($21) has a wonderful golden-yellow color that is bright and clear. This wine has a soft apple-butter nose and a clean, fresh finish.

De Loach Vineyards 2002 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($16) has a nose reminiscent of butter, smoke and a lovely bouquet of flowers.

Twin Fin 2004 Chardonnay, California ($10) has a soft, gentle aroma of tropical fruit and no oak. It is well-balanced and light-bodied, with a clean, smooth finish.

Here are a few other wines worth a try:

Perry Creek Vineyards 2003 Viognier, El Dorado ($15) has a wonderful nose of peaches, apricots and orange blossoms. Yet the taste is dry, with a little spritz and medium acidity. Perry Creek also makes a 2004 Muscat Canelli, El Dorado ($10) that has a “fruit basket” nose. With such a beautiful nose, I would normally expect a dull, sweet-tasting wine, but this Muscat has a refreshing, off-dry taste that is balanced by its acidity.

Bogle Vineyards 2003 Old Vine Zinfandel, California ($11) must be one of the best values around. The berry fruit leaps out of the glass and continues in the taste while integrating with the flavors of black pepper and cherries. The wine finishes with soft tannins and a chalky, long finish.

De Loach Vineyards 2002 Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($18) has a reddish-brown color and medium intensity, with a blend of black pepper and raspberries. It doesn’t disappoint on the palate—this is a WOW wine.

For Merlot fans, Clos du Val has done a remarkable job with its Clos du Val 2002 Merlot, Napa Valley ($25). Blackberries and ripe cherry fruit abound, along with subdued notes of green bell pepper and mildly charred oak. Clos du Val 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($28) is a sturdily structured wine with a concentration of tannin and lingering fruit.

Twin Fin 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($10) is easy to enjoy, with dark-cherry/plum fruit, balanced taste and a dry but elegant finish.