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I was reminded recently that the Zinfandel grape can be expressed in a delectable range of wine styles. The last few Zinfandels I have tried have been lush, exuberant, meal-in-a-glass old vine varieties, so brimming with personality that I was loathe to pair them with a meal – they simply begged to be sipped on their own. But then I came across local Miraflores Winery’s 2006 El Dorado Zinfandel, a deliciously appealing red that would be an excellent partner for barbecued meats, boldly flavored pastas, pizzas, ribs, and lusty, sausage-dotted winter stews. This focused, more restrained style of Zinfandel offered perfumey, violet-blackberry aromas and balanced, bright, spice-edged flavors of summer-ripe blackberries and black plums, with a nicely clean, peppery finish tinged with oak and a touch of sweet, smoky tobacco. If you’re looking for a food-friendly Zin, this is a terrific choice.